Archives: Product Reviews

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2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep, saturated ruby. Intensely spicy aromas of blackberry, bitter cherry, tobacco and minerals, with a complicating note of black pepper that became more pronounced with air. This is quite fresh and lively for the vintage, showing tangy red and dark berry flavors and a solid, chewy texture. Finishes with considerable finesse.

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Saturated ruby. Deep, pure, extremely primary aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and camphor, along with a suggestion of exotic spices. Quite suave on entry, then huge, sweet and superconcentrated, coating every nook and cranny of the palate. With an almost medicinal austerity, this very young Hermitage is almost bitter-edged today. But its impressive fullness in…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright, deep red. Expressive, full-blown aromas of currant, coffee and mocha. Sweet, round and ripe, with sexy flavors of ripe berries and licorice. Quite full for Margaux, and finishing with sweet tannins and lovely lingering fruit.

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

My notes for the 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori from a blind tasting read “reminds me of Tignanello.” Thankfully, I was not too far off! The Riserva Marchese Antinori includes 10% international varieties in addition to the Sangiovese, which does make it the wine closest to Tignanello in the Antinori lineup. The 2008 is…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

Good full ruby-red. Fresh, very pure aromas of raspberry, red cherry, flint and underbrush, along with a whiff of game. Bright and generous, with a restrained sweetness but a velvety texture and plenty of pure, clean mineral, red berry and delicate fresh herb flavors. The mineral-driven finish is long and gripping. I am amazed at…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright pale yellow; healthier than the village Chassagne-Montrachet. Aromas of apricot, hazelnut and nutty oak. Offers good texture and breadth, with more firming lemony acidity than the village Chassagne or the Bourgogne Blanc Le Clos du Château de Puligny-Montrachet (winemaker Brian Sieve described this wine as more representative of 2016). But still a bit tight–and…