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The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Very pale, bright yellow. Yellow peach, white pepper, wild herbs and smoky lees on the nose. Large-scaled and generous, with strong wet-stone minerality giving shape to the middle palate. This wine makes the Meursault Perrières seem tart by comparison; it’s fatter and easier to taste but also more structured. Finishes sappy, rich and long, with…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Very pale, bright yellow. Yellow peach, white pepper, wild herbs and smoky lees on the nose. Large-scaled and generous, with strong wet-stone minerality giving shape to the middle palate. This wine makes the Meursault Perrières seem tart by comparison; it’s fatter and easier to taste but also more structured. Finishes sappy, rich and long, with…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Highly complex, soil-driven aromas of lime blossom, menthol, white pepper, mint and musky flowers. Utterly seamless and suave but very youthfully unevolved, with fresh citrus and mineral flavors complicated by sexy brown spices. A wonderfully subtle, lemony, penetrating wine with great flavor intensity and near-perfect acid balance. Most impressive today on the very subtle, slowly…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Highly complex, soil-driven aromas of lime blossom, menthol, white pepper, mint and musky flowers. Utterly seamless and suave but very youthfully unevolved, with fresh citrus and mineral flavors complicated by sexy brown spices. A wonderfully subtle, lemony, penetrating wine with great flavor intensity and near-perfect acid balance. Most impressive today on the very subtle, slowly…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Echézeaux Grand Cru feels quite reduced on the nose, with a touch of brettanomyces, and it is difficult to discern the terroir. The grippy, taut, medium-bodied palate offers slightly chewy tannin but lacks depth and flesh on the slightly sour cherry finish. I hope this is entering an awkward stage and will improve…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Echézeaux Grand Cru displays a thick veneer of new oak on the nose that obscures the terroir expression at the moment. There is also a touch of reduction. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannin, masculine and obdurate, grippy but lacking a countervailing grace. Perhaps that grace will return with bottle age, but…