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2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 La Mission Haut-Brion is a gorgeous, elegant wine. Silky and pliant, La Mission is all finesse. Fine tannins lend energy as the 2020 gradually opens with some coaxing. Today, the flavors are remarkably primary, and yet the 2020 is so persistent, so elegant. Hints of cedar, tobacco, gravel and dried herbs add aromatic…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 La Mission Haut-Brion has a detailed bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, black olive, terracotta and a light wet clayey scent (I sometimes think of a potter’s wheel.) It gains complexity in the glass and becomes increasingly refined. The palate is beautifully balanced and caters for the 14.7% alcohol with…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 La Mission Haut-Brion was picked September 7–29. It has a very intense and beautifully defined bouquet of blackberry, wild strawberry, wilted violet petals and hints of orange blossom. It unfolded with aeration as I examined it side-by-side against its neighbor over the course of an hour. The exquisitely balanced palate is lightly spiced…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Château Margaux, re-tasted at the château, is a little more open on the nose, revealing even more of its stunning delineation, just so pixelated. Black cherries, blueberry and perhaps a tad more red fruit than I noticed in the sample tasted in the UK, more classic in style. The palate is harmonious and…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cantenac Brown is a knock-out. A Margaux of towering intensity, the 2020 is dense and vertical at the same time. It’s a combination that works so well. Dark cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather, licorice and cloves all saturate the palate. There’s real depth and concentration here from the summer heat and small size…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Cantenac Brown, cropped at 36hl/ha, has quite a precocious bouquet of macerated small black cherries, blueberry, touches of cassis and violet, all very generous and seductive in style. The palate is beautifully balanced and extremely pure, offering succulent ripe tannins, perfectly judged acidity and layers of blueberry, Dorset plum, crushed stone and light…