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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru has a pretty nose, very refined and focused with pressed flowers infusing the blackberry and cranberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, the 55% whole bunch seamlessly integrated with a silky, quite sensual finish and a long white pepper tinged aftertaste. Superb.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around 65% whole bunch. This has wonderful precision on the nose, very perfumed and floral at first though with time those scents of crushed limestone and oyster shell start percolating through. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, pitch-perfect acidity, bursting of energy and tension with a judicious…

New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

The 2019 Pinot Noir Home Vineyard should rename itself Seduction. If it took you on a dinner date, you’d be utterly charmed by its floral fragrance, seamlessness and sense of honed power. And you’d go on a second date. Forgive me here, but on first sniff, it reminds me of a wild-fermented Riesling with its…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Saturated ruby. Smoky, expansive cherry cola, cassis, succulent herb and floral qualities on the expansive nose. Broad and fleshy on entry, offering plush dark fruit, floral pastille and mocha flavors that become firmer and spicier as the wine opens up. The long, youthfully chewy finish strong echoes the cherry and floral notes and is firmed…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The bouquet on the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is to die for, offering cloves and balsamic spices that give way to crushed cherries, sage and fresh mint. It’s elegant yet lifted in feel, with silky textures carrying the ripe wild berry fruits effortlessly across the palate. Saline-minerals combine with grippy tannins toward the close, slowing…

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Galatrona is intriguing. Layers of espresso, sweet herbs, mocha and rich, dark fruit emerge from this beautifully-delineated wine. The 2008 isn’t a blockbuster Galatrona, rather it comes across as quite classic in its mid-weight personality and Bordeaux-like flavor profile. I would not at all be surprised to see this wine develop beautifully over…