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A Tuscan Icon – Petrolo Galatrona: 1998-2012 (Sep 2016)

Dark ruby. Dark berries, espresso, fresh herbs, and rich, dark cocoa on the perfumed nose. Then refined and light on its feet, with hints of cedar and graphite complicating blackcurrant and bay leaf flavors; this midweight Galatrona is very Pomerol-like. It’s also a Galatrona that is developing nicely, exuding a classic cooler-climate Bordeaux-blend refinement. This…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Reticent, slightly medicinal aromas of crushed stone and pear. Round and rich but lifted by a strong stony element. The mid-palate is dominated by a flavor of liquid stone. This, too, is rather inexpressive and austere today.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Reticent nose suggests cherry, licorice, flowers and truffle. Displays the copious sweetness of the vintage but with terrific focus and underlying spine. A stony, minerally pinot with real delicacy and cut. The long, noble finish offers a lovely combination of silk and stone and enticing lingering perfume. An archetypical Volnay that combines…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

(14% alcohol-but no higher than usual, notes Ambroise) Good full ruby. Deep, porty, liqueur-like aromas of black cherry and bitter chocolate. Sweet, broad and dense; not heavy but somewhat high-toned, with porty black fruit flavors given shape by surprisingly lively acidity. Strong suggestion of fruity dark chocolate. The tannins saturate the entire palate.

Everyday Piedmont – Dolcetto, Barbera and Langhe Nebbiolo (Nov 2014)

Black cherries, plums, smoke, licorice, tobacco and violets are some of the many notes that flesh out in the 2011 Barbera d’Alba Superiore. This dark, voluptuous beauty is already quite open and accessible. The 2011 doesn’t have the explosive intensity of some previous vintages, but in exchange it will drink well right out of the…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

(vinified with 100% whole clusters; from vines that were planted in 1911 and 1913): Saturated ruby. Ripe dark berries, candied plum and violet oil on the highly perfumed mineral- and smoke-accented nose. Supple and broad, offering palate-staining black raspberry and floral pastille flavors and a touch of white pepper. Finishes very long, spicy and floral,…