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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby. Pungent spices, black fruits, minerals, roasted nuts and coffee on the nose. Smooth and thick but solidly structured; faint animal notes in the mouth. Nicely integrated acids and tannins. A vin de garde yet the tannins seem less tough than normal, spreading out nicely on the aftertaste.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Bright deep ruby. Vinous, complex aromas of cassis, roasted plum, spice, licorice, roast coffee, game and grilled bread. Voluminous yet currently rather inexpressive in the mouth; this has a depth and texture not shown in either the ’97 or ’98. Distinct notes of torrefaction in the mouth. Finishes very long, with well-buffered, ripe tannins.

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux has a fleshy, almost animally bouquet with roasted chestnuts and ash infusing the red fruit, a touch of wild mint and garrigues in the background. This feels more forward than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, a fine bead of acidity, fresh and fleshy with a smorgasbord of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux performed far better at this horizontal than at Farr's blind tasting a few days later. It has a beguiling bouquet, highly perfumed with crushed violets infusing the blackberry and crushed strawberry scented, hints of pencil box and cedar emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Saturated ruby-red. Deep aromas of blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate, complicated by nuances of loam and coffee extract. Dense, thick and sweet, but with harmonious acidity giving shape and lift to the pungent cassis, spice and tobacco flavors. Youthfully chewy wine with terrific underlying structure and a very long, sappy finish featuring broad tannins and…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(90% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, 1.5% cabernet franc and 1.5% petit verdot; 71IPT; from a yield of 39 hectoliters per hectare; 13.5% alcohol; a roughly 38% selection) Good, full, dark ruby-red. Aromatic nose offers red fruits, sweet spices, dried bay leaf, soy sauce and an intense saline note. Large-scaled and powerful, with a distinctly salty,…