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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 90% merlot, 7% cabernet sauvignon and 3 % cabernet franc; 30 hectoliters per hectare; 15.5% alcohol; pH 3,65; 80 IPT) Inky black-ruby. Slightly gamey, highly aromatic nose combines cassis, plum jam, blood orange, incense and soy sauce. Then outsized but supple and fresh, with spicy plum, cedar and rosemary-oregano flavors supported by…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(15.5% alcohol on the label!): Saturated medium ruby. Enticing aromas of cassis, coffee, mocha and licorice pastille. Hugely dense but fine-grained, offering a liqueur-like, exotic sweetness to its superripe dark fruit and chocolate flavors. For all its richness and baby fat, the wine’s chalky underpinning prevents it from coming off as monolithic. Perhaps most impressive…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Troplong-Mondot has a completely over the top, gregarious and raisin-like bouquet that frankly comes as no surprise given the philosophy of the estate at this time. The palate is sweet on the entry with candied black cherries, cassis and cough candy, unlike Bordeaux in some ways with a rather cloying and alcoholic finish….

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2003 Dom Pérignon is in a gorgeous place right now. To be sure, it is a powerful Champagne that reflects the personality of a year marked by frost, that took out 70% of the Chardonnay, and then record heat and drought over the summer. The 2003 is just starting to head into its first…

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Good full red. Less obviously ripe aromas of black cherry, dark berries, cocoa powder, and smoke, plus a faint medicinal nuance. More open in the mouth today than Beaucastel’s ’97; shows lovely sweetness and texture and very good cut and thrust. Hints of leather and game. Not quite as ripe as the ’97, but finishes…

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

Dark ruby-purple. Penetrating floral and forest floor notes complicate aromas of blackcurrant and minerals. Big, dense and suave, with bright flavors of crystallized blackcurrant, coffee and cocoa. Finishes with mounting tannins that remain just this side of dry, and a stony tang that keeps the wine juicy.