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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1985 Petrus has long been the most disappointing wine of this decade and this bottle does nothing to alter that conviction. Showing modest bricking, perhaps slightly paler in colour than I recall, the bouquet does nothing much. Static and to use a word I previously used – staid, like a teenager loafing around. The…

Annual Rose Roundup (Jul 2013)

Bright orange-pink. Pungent red berries, cherry and dried flowers on the nose, with a hint of anise in the background. Broad and fleshy, offering weighty, slightly warm raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a refreshingly bitter kick of blood orange. Finishes smooth and persistent, leaving a zesty orange pith note behind. This wine was made…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Full red-ruby. Bright aromas of dark raspberry, licorice, minerals and espresso are lifted by a floral high note. Juicy, spicy and sharply delineated, with excellent energy to the ripe, complex flavors of dark berries, lead pencil and spices. This very fresh wine shows a very firm spine to support a leisurely evolution in bottle without…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Deep ruby. Pure, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, blackcurrant, spices and crushed rock are lifted by a captivating floral element. Sweet, dense, and spicy on entry, then shows an enticing restrained sweetness and good verve to its red and black fruit flavors. Finishes with substantial but noble tannins and very good length, with a persistent minerality.

Fermented Grape Juice: Romanée-Conti 1953-2005 (Apr 2019)

The 1990 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru has a seductive and very sensual bouquet that for the first 30 minutes shades the 1991. It was picked on September 22 at 32hl/ha. Dark berry fruit, and hints of fresh fig and raisin permeate the luscious red fruit, later leather and sage joining the fray. There is warmth on…

Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)

Another wine with extraordinary aromatic presence, the 1990 Romanée-Conti is just beginning to enter the peak of its maturity and also quite feminine in its personality. As it often is, the Romanée-Conti is elusive and, at times, fleeting. The 1990 constantly changes in the glass, inviting a second taste, and then a third. It’s hard…