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The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright, dark red. Highly perfumed nose combines tangy red berries, rose petal and crushed rock. Silky on entry, then intensely flavored and bracing, delivering urgent, sharply delineated flavors of crushed red fruits, flowers and minerals. Offers outstanding cut and inner-mouth tension, especially in the context of the year. Wonderfully complex and precise on the juicy,…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

A heady, exotic Burgundy, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is remarkably vivid for such a big wine, with freakish levels of concentration that are beautifully balanced by insistent veins of underlying minerality. Layers of pure Pinot fruit build through the mid-palate and finish as this voluptuous, racy wine shows off its fabulous pedigree. It…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has an intriguing bouquet, a little timid compared to Mugneret-Gibourg’s imperious Ruchottes-Chambertin alongside, yet it discretely gains intensity and complexity throughout the course of three hours, developing gorgeous scents of blackberry pastilles, cranberry, wild heather and a subtle ferrous scent. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright, dark red. Highly perfumed nose combines tangy red berries, rose petal and crushed rock. Silky on entry, then intensely flavored and bracing, delivering urgent, sharply delineated flavors of crushed red fruits, flowers and minerals. Offers outstanding cut and inner-mouth tension, especially in the context of the year. Wonderfully complex and precise on the juicy,…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

A heady, exotic Burgundy, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is remarkably vivid for such a big wine, with freakish levels of concentration that are beautifully balanced by insistent veins of underlying minerality. Layers of pure Pinot fruit build through the mid-palate and finish as this voluptuous, racy wine shows off its fabulous pedigree. It…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(completely destemmed and aged in one-third new oak; bottled in March, along with the sold-out premier cru, which I did not have a chance to taste, and the Clos des Lambrays): Moderately saturated medium red. Very ripe but not roasted on the nose, with its raspberry fruit complicated by spices and sexy earth tones, plus…