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The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(13% alcohol; from a sunny, early-ripening site): Light, bright yellow. Yellow stone fruits and a whiff of pear on the deeply pitched, rather powerful nose; distinctly less delicate than the higher-altitude La Truffière. Fat, round and sweet but lacking the detail of Sauzet’s other 2014 premier crus from Puligny; in fact, this is the first…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Ruchottes-Chambertin is laced with sweet red berries, crushed flowers and spices. This is another relatively soft, supple wine, with no hard contours or hard edges. Pretty, silky tannins support the spherical texture. Here, too, the overall impression is that the Ruchottes is built for near and medium-term pleasure.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright medium red. Superripe aromas of black and purple fruits, violet and licorice, complicated by leather and game nuances. Highly concentrated, very ripe and palate-staining, with the black fruit and menthol flavors lifted by a note of violet. Finishes with a suggestion of chocolatey ripeness and outstanding breadth. Perhaps not as classy as its 2013…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has more fruit intensity than Jean-Marie Fourrier’s (implying just a slightly later picking, perhaps), offering copious black plum, raspberry, sous-bois and subtle tobacco scents that are beautifully defined. The palate totally delivers: harmonious, succinct, beautifully structured, with perfect acidity that imparts a disarming sense of symmetry, and brilliantly…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright medium red. Captivating high-pitched perfume of raspberry, cranberry and flowers; Then juicy, penetrating and youthfully tight on the palate; plenty ripe and dense, not to mention utterly seamless, but shows rare energy for the vintage, with the tart red berry and crushed-stone qualities of the vineyard lifted by an ineffable floral quality. The slowly…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has an intriguing bouquet, a little timid compared to Mugneret-Gibourg’s imperious Ruchottes-Chambertin alongside, yet it discretely gains intensity and complexity throughout the course of three hours, developing gorgeous scents of blackberry pastilles, cranberry, wild heather and a subtle ferrous scent. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a…