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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(100% vendange entier): Healthy dark red. Pure but tight aromas of raspberry, spices, rose petal, licorice and herbs. Densely packed and vibrant–impressively so for a 2015–with notes of bitter orange rind and peppery herbs accenting its flavors of red berries, brown spices, menthol, mocha and underbrush. Very savory wine with terrific spicy depth, as well…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(also in cuve due to reduction): Healthy medium red. Blackberry, cassis, spices and earth on the nose; still showing a trace of reduction. At once supple and juicy, displaying lovely minty lift and delineation to the dark berry and spicy oak flavors. Fresh, juicy wine with noteworthy cut.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan blossoms beautifully in the glass, but only after having been opened for several hours. Crushed flowers, mint, sweet herbs, anise and spice make a strong first impression. The 2005 is a VCC that makes its case more on finesse than power. I appreciate the understated, classy style quite a bit….

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(80% merlot) Bright ruby-red. Very closed nose hints at licorice and nutty oak. Sweet and broad in the mouth, with a chocolatey ripeness but less energy and grip than the 2006. This is more mouthfilling, and more sexy today in the middle palate, but may ultimately be less complex. Or is it just more reserved…

Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

The first thing that is evident about the 2000 Brut Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill is its finesse and total silkiness. The 2000 is a rich, creamy and deeply expressive Winston Churchill. I don’t see the 2000 being an especially long-term ager, but it is wonderfully radiant and open today. Hints of pasty, spice, apricots and…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)

Light yellow-gold. Spicy, intensely perfumed aromas of lemon curd, blood orange, anise and jasmine, with a toasty overtone. Supple and concentrated, with dried citrus and hazelnut flavors complemented by ginger and buttered toast. A long, subtly floral finish shows a hint of smoky minerality and impressive energy. This is drinking well now, but I suspect…