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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot; 80% new oak): Opaque ruby-purple. Fragrant bouquet of blackberry, violet and spicy graphite. Bright and juicy on the palate, with sneaky concentration and lively acidity lifting the delicate blackcurrant and mineral flavors. Finishes long and tactile, with hints of ink and spice. A very good showing.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pichon-Longueville Baron is wonderfully aromatic and textured in the glass. Scents of smoke, pipe tobacco and cedar meld into a core of intense dark fruit. Pliant and supple, but with considerable underlying structure, the 2012 is likely to drink well for the next two to three decades, perhaps longer, but it is also…

Vinous Table: Ginza Cobau コバウ, Tokyo, Japan (Apr 2019)

The 2012 Pichon Baron is a magnificent wine that exudes freshness on the nose, with razor-sharp graphite notes suffusing the black fruit. The structured, linear palate just “sings” Pauillac; it is not as bold or as ambitious as the 2009 or 2015, yet there is perfect dryness toward the finish that urges you to take…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Montrose boasts a killer bouquet with beautifully delineated black fruit laced with cedar and tobacco. With time its sous-bois scents become more prominent. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little grainy in texture with fine acidity. This is a masculine and broody Saint-Estèphe that will need another decade in bottle to…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 9% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot) Deep inky-purple colour. Enticing aromas of pure floral blackberry, blueberry and minerals. Enters big, dense and suave, showing rich, almost viscous red and black fruit flavors complicated by dried herbs, tobacco, and minerals. The very long finish showcases some youthfully…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Superripe, deep aromas of black raspberry, cassis, plum, minerals, licorice and bitter chocolate. Densely packed, elegant and classically dry, with creamy depth of dark fruit and mineral flavors given definition and cut by terrific vinosity. This compellingly pure, extract-rich wine showed increasing energy as it opened in the glass. Finishes with big,…