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2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2016 Giodo Brunello di Montalcino is darkly alluring with a slightly rustic feel that adds further sultry depths. A whiff of crushed stone and sage gives way to black raspberry with an underpinning of white pepper in a display of contrasts. It’s silky in texture with a polished feel to its ripe red fruits,…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(61% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 9% petit verdot; 40% new oak; 44 hl/ha) Bright ruby. Highly floral aromas of ripe red cherry and sweet licorice. Then spicy, sweet and juicy on the palate, with rather forward flavors of sweet, ripe red fruits complemented by a hint of minerality. Just a trace…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Gloria has a slightly rustic but appealing bouquet with singed leather and tobacco infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with good concentration, although it does not quite deliver the complexity and finesse of its peers, as if trying too hard. It is a decent Gloria, although more recent vintages are superior…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Aleste is a dark, ample wine. Dark cherry, plum, new leather, spice and licorice bring out darker tones of Nebbiolo. All the natural power of these parcels come through effortlessly. Best of all, the 2017 will drink well with minimal cellaring.

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Aleste is gorgeous, but also very quite today. There's terrific purity to the dark red/purplish fruit and a good bit of volume too, but readers will have to be patient. Bright acids and firm tannins lend energy. I admire the presence and texture here. The Aleste, from Cannubi Boschis, benefits from a…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Red-ruby. Leather, mocha and a whiff of game on the nose; less pure and expressive today than the 2006. Big and rich but not particularly fruity. Presents a somewhat awkward combination of impressive volume and leafy cabernet. Finishes with tough, somewhat rustic tannins.