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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2003 Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked 15-25 September and matured in 90% new oak, has a ripe and opulent bouquet with lavish black fruit, fresh fig, dates and a touch of liquorice, though here is no sense of over-maturity here. It is fresher than a lot of ‘03s that I have recently tasted. The palate is well…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full ruby. Vibrant aromas of crushed blueberry and bitter chocolate are further brightened by a violet quality. Dense, sweet and lush, with terrific depth and freshness to its dark fruit, mineral and violet flavors. This is really creamy-rich for the vintage. Finishes with smooth, chocolatey tannins and outstanding palate-saturating length. It’s hard to imagine how…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Bright full red. Cool, rather subdued aromas of cherry, currant and mint. Reasonably ripe but with modest sweetness and texture. With a bit less middle-palate extract to buffer its tannins, the finish comes across as a bit bony, even green.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Bright full red. Cool, rather subdued aromas of cherry, currant and mint. Reasonably ripe but with modest sweetness and texture. With a bit less middle-palate extract to buffer its tannins, the finish comes across as a bit bony, even green.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is initially tightly wound on the nose, opening gradually to reveal blackberry, raspberry, orange pith and rose petal scents; more sous-bois character develops with time. The palate is very harmonious with a lightly spiced entry. A little oak remains to be subsumed, but there is fine depth on the finish,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes 1er Cru was a little more closed on the nose compared to the other cuvées, gradually unfolding with dark berry fruit, crushed stone, briary and a touch of graphite. The palate is beautifully defined with fine-grain, pliant tannins, quite tensile from start to finish with a perfectly proportioned finish. Wonderful.