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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pontet-Canet offers attractive red berry fruit mixed with cedar and potpourri, underneath which lies subtle aromas of graphite that I would like to see a little more of as it matures in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that render this one of the more approachable vintages in recent years. The…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru was a little reduced on the nose when I tasted it from barrel. The palate is quite dense with good grip and darker fruit than the Ruchottes, leading to a lightly peppered finish. I will reserve judgment for later.

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright red. Knockout nose offers scents of black raspberry, cherry, rose petal, smoky minerality and sexy sweet oak. Tactile, ripe and spicy, with pepper and spice high notes accentuating the wine’s sharp definition. Redder its in fruit character than the Clos des Ruchottes, and even finer-grained in the middle palate, but also more tannic on…

Plundering Burgundy Past (Jul 2018)

The 1992 Chambertin has a surprisingly youthful hue. The nose is impressive in context of the vintage with raspberry coulis, crushed violet petals and a pastille-like purity. The palate is medium-bodied and for this domaine, a little angular in style. Still, it has a fresh, almost sorbet-like core of crushed strawberry and a pinch of…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot; the estate-wide yield here was 44 hl/ha) the very early harvest date of September 29 for the merlot (October 15 for the cabernet sauvignon) suggests that the estate might have pulled the trigger a little too quickly here, especially in what is one…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Montrose has a lifted perfumed bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, iris and limestone scents, nicely defined and opening with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm backbone, layers of cedar-tinged black fruit, spicebox and white pepper, leading to a persistent, structured finish that probably needs another year or two to soft. Impressive. (Tasted…