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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a natural, open-knit bouquet of red cherries and wild strawberry, plus a hint of balsamic in the background. It feels a little higher-toned than Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares, and that becomes more evident with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, robust and solid, with a slightly chewy entry and good depth,…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru is very perfumed on the nose with greater fruit intensity than Mugnier’s Amoureuses, whilst maintaining satisfying delineation. This unfurls wonderfully in the glass, certainly one of the more opulent Amoureuses. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, quite layered and grippy, bold in terms of structure with…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a stupendous bouquet of brilliantly defined, mineral-infused black and blue fruit, showing laser-like focus and even more complexity than the Bonnes-Mares. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a superb line of acidity and plenty of energy from start to finish. This is a very harmonious and…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is striking, especially in the way it brings together elements of ripeness and freshness in a hypothetical blend of the 2002 and 2004. Smooth and creamy on the palate, the 2006 is all about texture. There is a real feeling of density and weight in the 2006, qualities I expect…