Archives: Product Reviews

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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Black-ruby color. Port-like nose shows a primary grapey character along with herb and spice notes. Thick, sweet and velvety in the mouth; very concentrated but a bit one-dimensional. Finishes with ripe but somewhat coarse tannins. A big, somewhat rustic mouthful, not quite as interesting as the ’94 was at the same stage of its development….

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1995 Brane-Cantenac was picked September 18–29 at 46hl/ha. It has long been the high point of what, in retrospect, was a challenging decade for this Margaux estate. The gorgeous, slightly herbal bouquet is very engaging, featuring plenty of red berry fruit mixed with bay leaf and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Ruby-red. Floral, cedary aromas of blackcurrant and licorice. Concentrated but quite pliant in the middle palate. Ripe tannins nicely supported by fruit extract.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby color. Blueberry, roasted nuts, mint and a hint of game on the nose. Fat, sweet and multilayered; rich, ripe and deep. Offers a generous mouthfeel for a young ’96 from the Medoc. Substantial ripe tannins spread out over the palate. Very long, ripe aftertaste.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The bottle of 1989 Léoville-Barton is probably the best I have encountered over the years; indeed, it is better than a bottle opened by Lilian Barton-Sartorius when I visited the property a few weeks earlier. It has a comely old-school claret bouquet of red fruit infused with cedar and loamy scents, and maybe some dustiness,…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)

(disgorged May, 2012; L218732): Bright orange-pink. Potent, mineral-accented aromas of redcurrant and blood orange, with smoke, anise and floral accents and a hint of chalky minerals. Sappy red berry and candied citrus flavors show excellent vivacity and put on weight with air. Finishes plush and expansive, with bitter orange pith and ginger notes adding lift…