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Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a ripe, quite candied bouquet laced with orange peel, mandarin and hints of fish oil and linseed. The palate is well balanced with a spicy opening, touches of stem ginger and orange peel laced with marjoram, dovetailing into quite an intense, layered finish that is complex and persistent. It…

The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)

(this fruit was picked on September 3; 40% new oak; still at 2.5 g/l r.s. and not yet sulfured): Bright medium yellow. Very ripe stone fruit flavors show a slightly exotic tropical quality. Plush, ripe and sweet, with a distinct thickness to its apple flavor. The long, slowly mounting finish displays terrific soil salinity and…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The Beaune Bressandes is one of my favorite wines at this address. The 2009 is another strong effort. It is a tightly wound, inward wine with gorgeous aromatics and plenty of structure. The Bressandes remains focused through to the finish, but occasionally shows some of the fragrance and expressiveness that will develop as the tannins…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2005)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc) Bright ruby-red. Ripe aromas of black plum, licorice, chocolate and menthol; slightly reduced. Sweet, lush, broad and deep, with black cherry, mocha and cocoa powder flavors complicated by a balsamic note. Finishes with dusty, building tannins.

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The estate’s 1996 Brut Femme de Champagne is really quite pretty in the way it balances some of the more mature notes from extended lees aging with the freshness of the vintage. To be sure, this isn’t a blockbuster 1996, but the Femme de Champagne offers plenty of class and elegance in an approachable, delicate…

The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins…