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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(this is aging in 30% new oak, which is pretty much the maximum for premier crus at this address): Pale yellow. Aromas of peach, white pepper and fresh almond; spicier than most of the foregoing samples. Dense and intensely flavored, conveying a lightly saline quality to its white peach, soft citrus and spice flavors. A…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru is a little richer on the nose than J.M. Boillot’s, displaying good definition and touches of dried honey and white flowers; very pure, even if it does not quite exude the mineralité of its peers. The palate sports a bit of reduction, although there is very good weight…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru had already been bottled when I visited Christophe Roumier. (It is customary for him to bottle before the following year’s harvest to maintain freshness.) This has an energetic bouquet of yellow plum, lemon curd and light white flower aromas. The palate is well balanced with touches of apricot and peach,…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru displays good intensity on the nose of dried honey and peach skin, a little pithy compared to the more effervescent 2019. The palate is quite forward on the entry, offering notes of mandarin, mango and a touch of orange peel. Quite a “thick” and dense Corton-Charlemagne. My intuition is that…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

(50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir) Bright yellow-gold with a strong mousse. Meyer lemon, green apple and subtle leesy nuances on the nose, with suave floral honey and green tea notes emerging with air. Medium-bodied citrus and bitter quince flavors are impressively precise, with dusty minerals adding lift and grip. Understated, brisk Champagne with excellent…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The 1998 Brut Cuvée R. Lalou is a selection of the estate’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay parcels. In 1998 the blend is 50% Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Bouzy, Verzy and Ambonnay, and 50% Chardonnay from Avize and Cramant. The wine offers up buttery, toasty aromas along with a rich, almost tropical expression of fruit….