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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A pretty, open-knit wine, the 2012 La Conseillante is quite expressive today. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, new leather, cedar and cloves flesh out in the glass. Supple, racy and inviting, the 2012 is an attractive, mid-weight Conseillante built on harmony and textural finesse. There is plenty to like, although I would have liked to see…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2012 La Conseillante has a very expressive bouquet with vibrant black cherry, blackcurrant and truffle aromas, with aeration fomenting more red fruit (crushed strawberry and cranberry) with an undertow of mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with finer tannin than the 2011, a keen thread of acidity and a satisfying crescendo of flavours: dark cherry,…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Duhart-Milon is a bit of a beast. Displays quite a dense, unforgiving pencil lead and tobacco-scented nose, and the fruit seems to take a back seat at the moment. The palate is well-balanced but undeniably brawny and rough-hewn, the kind of Pauillac you wouldn’t want to meet down a dark alley at midnight….

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium ruby. Superripe aromas and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Big, chocolatey and rich; much broader and more backward than the Carruades I tasted next to it but without that wine’s perfume and light touch. Finishes chewy and youthfully medicinal, with a classic dryness and substantial tannins that call…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Currant, meat, mocha and grilled nuts on the nose. Lush, sweet and smooth, with just enough vinosity to maintain its balance. A vin de plaisir whose lovely fruit and sweet, harmonious tannins make it very easy to taste today (the chateau carried out a gentler, shorter extraction in ’99). But doesn’t have…