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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Bright red-ruby. Strong redcurrant and cherry liqueur aromas, complemented by sweet oak. Very rich and thick, with a candied, liqueur-like quality that reminded me of a chocolate truffle. Very Clos Vougeot in its medicinal, menthol character, but can’t quite match the lift or class of Grivot’s ’05s from higher-altitude sites. This is a more earth-bound…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a deep color. The beautifully defined bouquet offers blackberry, raspberry, incense and crushed stone aromas, all incredibly detailed and precise. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, perfectly pitched acidity and a structured finish that delivers good grip and a touch of black pepper on the spicy…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Deep red. High-pitched aromas of cassis, blackberry, violet and bitter chocolate; much blacker in character than the Porrets Saint-Georges and Nuits villages Rich, dense and sweet; impressively large-scaled for the vintage but with delicacy and definition. Intriguing notes of mint and chocolate. Seriously structured wine with excellent verve. The rather suave tannins reach the front…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Very ripe but fresh aromas of red fruits, menthol, coffee and licorice. Silky on entry, then solid in the middle and stuffed with redcurrant, black raspberry and dark chocolate flavors complicated by leather and spices. This seriously structured, complex 2009 shows little in the way of easy sweetness today and will need…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Clos des Porrets St. Georges comes across as silky, perfumed and quite pretty in this vintage. There is an early approachability to the wine that makes it an excellent choice for drinking over the near and mid-term. Gregoire Gouges told me he didn’t think the wine would shut down in…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Granite Chenin Blanc comes from 42-year-old vines on the Paarderberg. The bouquet offers lime, orange zest and honeysuckle on the nose, plus a touch of watermelon in the background. The palate is very well balanced with a crisp line of acidity, and quite saline in the mouth. It tightens up on the finish,…