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Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)

The 1990 Cantenac Brown, which was José Sanfins’ first proper vintage (he was a trainee in 1989), has a pleasant, mature bouquet with summer fruit, sage, mushroom, leather and wild mint; it’s a little feral but it gets an applause from me. The palate is well balanced, old school with melted tannins, quite spicy towards…

New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2008)

(63% shiraz, 18% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 9% cabernet franc) Saturated red color. Black raspberry, boysenberry, cherry-cola and Asian spices on the nose, with gentle oak spiciness adding further complexity. Plump and juicy, offering luscious dark berry, cherry-vanilla flavors and succulent herb flavors, with silky tannins providing frame. Firm minerality lends focus to an…

New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2008)

(63% shiraz, 18% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 9% cabernet franc) Saturated red color. Black raspberry, boysenberry, cherry-cola and Asian spices on the nose, with gentle oak spiciness adding further complexity. Plump and juicy, offering luscious dark berry, cherry-vanilla flavors and succulent herb flavors, with silky tannins providing frame. Firm minerality lends focus to an…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright red-ruby. Knockout nose features boysenberry, currant, cedar, graphite and mocha. Suave, gentle and sweet, already displaying ineffable inner-mouth perfume. The 17% merlot component injects a silky component, and the oak element adds a complementary sweetness. Complex, lush, horizontal finish saturates the mouth with flavor. It was not clear to me in April that the…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good deep ruby-red. Reticent nose showed some dark cherry with aeration. Densely packed but youthfully closed, even a bit austere today, offering hints of black raspberry and minerals. This is fairly tannic wine (the IPT is 72) but there’s nothing hard about it. My sample gained in sweetness and texture with aeration, although its fruit…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light gold. Smoky, mineral-laced citrus fruits and honeysuckle on the incisive nose. Opens up slowly to offer juicy Meyer lemon and white peach flavors underscored by a note of candied ginger. This taut, focused example delivers plenty of youthful verve and strong finishing cut. I find this quite a bit tighter than the majority of…