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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Deep but closed nose hints at cherry, herbs and damp earth. Then large-scaled and explosive in the mouth, with a compellingly creamy quality to its red fruit and licorice flavors. Approachable now for its sheer sweetness and generous mouthfeel, this thick but shapely wine nonetheless needs time in the cellar to show…

Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)

In a vintage in which so many wines are all about intensity, 2009 Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Champans (magnum) impresses for its perfume, delineated fruit and fabulous overall balance. Refined and impeccable in its sense of restraint, the 2009 is so very pretty and expressive. Silky tannins round out the racy, polished finish. What a gorgeous…

Remember, Remember: 1945 Bordeaux (May 2020)

The 1945 d'Yquem is consistent with the two previous bottles that I tasted. I will not say anything other than that it is a perfect bottle of Sauternes. It still has that ethereal delineation on the nose of vivacious Seville orange marmalade and quince aromas, if maybe just a little more nuttiness compared to previous…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1979 Yquem came from a small cache of half-bottles I acquired for sixpence many moons ago. It is a pretty decent Sauternes for the vintage, featuring plenty of rich apricot and quince on the nose along with emerging hints of Barsac-like barley sugar. The palate has perhaps not aged quite as well, displaying sharp…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1975 Yquem vies with the 1976 for supremacy. It was picked over three tries and finished not until 17 November, a small crop of rich berries. At 45-years of age it has lost none of its potency. It bursts from the glass with quince, Tokaji Azsú, Clementines and a hint of stem ginger, all…

2018 Château d’Yquem (Sep 2020)

The just-released 2018 Château d’Yquem is a pretty, gracious wine. In 2018 d’Yquem is decidedly airy and ethereal in feel. Light apricot, passion fruit, spice, tangerine oil, orange peel, jasmine and pear accents are layered throughout. Residual sugar is 145 grams per liter, which is not especially evident. I tasted the 2018 over the course…