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Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Vintage is a nervy, electrifying Champagne, the likes of which has not emerged from Krug”s cellars since the magical 1996. Bright and sculpted, with tremendous precision, the 2008 dazzles from start to finish. Stylistically, the 2008 doesn”t have the toastiness or explosive breadth often found in young Krug, but that in no way…

Vinous Table: Marino Ristorante, Hollywood, CA (Jun 2018)

The 1988 Krug makes for a fabulous start. Tasted from a perfect bottle, the 1988 remains bright and focused, with all of the energy of this great vintage very much on display. Time has naturally softened some of the contours and added a good bit of nuance, but the 1988 Krug remains a Champagne of…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

(note reprinted from Issue 93) Ineffable yeast autolysis aromas (biscuit, meal, nuts) virtually resist characterization; reminded me of a great Chevalier-Montrachet. A wine of extraordinary depth of flavor, vinosity and class, thanks to penetrating but perfectly harmonious, lipsmacking acidity. Quite dry but with wonderfully ripe fruit. Very firm and youthful on the finish, but already…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Very good ruby-red. Plum, smoked meat, gunflint and minerals on the nose. Suppler and riper than the Cote-Rotie Les Essartailles, with decent texture but only modest personality. Notes of cassis and licorice. Finishes with slightly dry tannins.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep red. Aromas of cherry, espresso and mellow smoky oak. Round but on the dry side, showing less flavor intensity in the middle than the 2006. A wine of moderate ripeness and punch. Today the tannins cut off the wine’s fruit. Perhaps in an awkward stage.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Clos de l’Oratoire was picked at 29hl/ha and matured in 70% new oak for 18 months. It has an attractive mulberry, bay leaf, incense and orange peel bouquet that is fresh and vital after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite sturdy tannin. This is fresh but shows a surprisingly firm…