Archives: Product Reviews

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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium ruby. Superripe aromas and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Big, chocolatey and rich; much broader and more backward than the Carruades I tasted next to it but without that wine’s perfume and light touch. Finishes chewy and youthfully medicinal, with a classic dryness and substantial tannins that call…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Currant, meat, mocha and grilled nuts on the nose. Lush, sweet and smooth, with just enough vinosity to maintain its balance. A vin de plaisir whose lovely fruit and sweet, harmonious tannins make it very easy to taste today (the chateau carried out a gentler, shorter extraction in ’99). But doesn’t have…

Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2005 La Lagune has an attractive bouquet with plenty of blackberry, raspberry, minerals and dried flowers, the oak neatly integrated. This blossoms nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but firm tannin, just a little chewiness on the front end but considerable weight and concentration at the back. Like many 2005s…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Aromas and flavors of currant, mocha, tobacco and smoke, complemented by sweet, nutty oak. Lush, sweet and seamless; quite full for La Lagune. This generous, impressively concentrated wine finishes with sweet tannins, a whiplash of flavor and real mouthcoating breadth. I underrated this two years ago.

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Vieux Château Certan has a timid bouquet at first and demands a lot of coaxing from the glass. I wonder if this is in the middle of a closed down phase? This VCC seems to leave all the action on the palate: filigree tannin, a silver bead of acidity, very pure and complex…