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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Ruby-red. Perfumed, sweet nose offers red cherry, raspberry, cinnamon and mineral aromas. Sweet and round on entry, then polished and smooth in the middle, with raspberry and red cherry flavors extended impressively by bright, harmonious acidity. A potential knockout. By the way, the acidity is higher…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright red ruby. Vibrant aromas of kirsch, chocolate, mint and tarragon. Intensely flavored and juicy, with excellent precision and a restrained sweetness to the dark fruit and mineral flavors. With its strong impression of energy, this is less easygoing than most 2008 Pomerols but built for a slow and graceful evolution in bottle. Serious and…

Simply…..Dom Pérignon (Jan 2009)

These four vintages of Dom Pérignon provide a fascinating snapshot of how the house has performed in recent years. The 1998 Dom Pérignon comes across as somewhat two–dimensional and lacking the sheer cut of the 2000. There is plenty of ripeness in the fruit, but not quite the definition and verve of the finest vintages….

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Pale yellow. An enticing blend of red berries, butter and toast on the nose; this settled down to an earthy, smoky character that reminded me of Batard-Montrachet. Full and rich, with flavors of musky yellow plum and ripe pear accented by crisp mineral notes. Really long and vibrant on the building finish, if not as…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The 1998 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill opens with intriguing, exotic notes of smoke, cured meats and tar. This is a big, sweeping Sir Winston Churchill endowed with layers of perfumed ripe pears, quince, flowers and spices in a style that balances a generous expression of fruit with acidity and minerality. Everything is in the…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Intensely aromatic nose offers a complex bouquet of smoky orchard and pit fruit aromas, along with exotic orange zest and white pepper. Deep and chewy, displaying impressively concentrated but brisk pear and bitter citrus pith flavors and an undercurrent of buttery brioche and lees. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and a subtle anise quality….