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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 63/37 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.5% alcohol; IPT 70) Medium-deep ruby. The delicately scented nose is classic Pauillac: blackcurrant, violet, cedar and graphite. Enters smooth and seamless, with lively acids nicely lifting the blackberry, plum and smoky mineral flavors. Refined and restrained Pauillac, finishing sleek and long, with very smooth tannins and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Duhart-Milon is recalcitrant on the nose, refusing to give much away in terms of aromas. Loamy, peaty scents emerge with time amongst the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, fresh in the mouth with good salinity. There is something estuarine about this Pauillac that lends it personality and its grip…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2004 Cristal is superb today. Bright and focused, the 2004 shows all of the tension and energy that has always been one of its signatures. The first hints of aromatic maturity are starting to develop, but the 2004 remains quite young and full of energy. I have always admired the 2004 (along with the…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay) Light, bright gold. Spicy citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by chalk, white flowers and a touch of smokiness. Taut, linear lemon and orange rind flavors give way to deeper pear in the mid-palate and pick up notes of honeysuckle and toasted grain with air. Still very young…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

As hard as it may seem to believe, the 2002 Cristal Rosé (Re-Release) is even better than the Blanc. Utterly explosive in the glass, with soaring aromatics and tremendous palate presence, the 2002 dazzles from the very first taste. With time in the glass the 2002 grows effortlessly, showing myriad shades of nuance with each…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2009)

(a blend of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay; L031587L100418) Medium pink with a light copper hue. Strawberry, cherry skin and blood orange on the nose, with notes of brown butter and dried flowers adding complexity. Lush and creamy but not heavy, offering open-knit red berry and sappy citrus flavors and a deeper, buttery quality…