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Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

Another highlight in this vertical, the 2002 Salon is also fascinating to taste after the 2004. Rich, opulent and intense, yet also very classic in the Salon house style, the 2002 possesses superb persistence and depth. The radiant vintage has softened the contours and given the wine fabulous depth to match its decidedly powerful personality….

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow. Intensely perfumed aromas of tangerine, poached pear, white flowers and candied ginger, with a vibrant mineral overtone. Velvety and seamless on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and citrus fruit flavors that gain spiciness and vivacity with air. Shows superb depth and finishes long, taut and minerally, with clinging pear and honeysuckle qualities….

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1985 Petrus has long been the most disappointing wine of this decade and this bottle does nothing to alter that conviction. Showing modest bricking, perhaps slightly paler in colour than I recall, the bouquet does nothing much. Static and to use a word I previously used – staid, like a teenager loafing around. The…

Annual Rose Roundup (Jul 2013)

Bright orange-pink. Pungent red berries, cherry and dried flowers on the nose, with a hint of anise in the background. Broad and fleshy, offering weighty, slightly warm raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a refreshingly bitter kick of blood orange. Finishes smooth and persistent, leaving a zesty orange pith note behind. This wine was made…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Full red-ruby. Bright aromas of dark raspberry, licorice, minerals and espresso are lifted by a floral high note. Juicy, spicy and sharply delineated, with excellent energy to the ripe, complex flavors of dark berries, lead pencil and spices. This very fresh wine shows a very firm spine to support a leisurely evolution in bottle without…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Deep ruby. Pure, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, blackcurrant, spices and crushed rock are lifted by a captivating floral element. Sweet, dense, and spicy on entry, then shows an enticing restrained sweetness and good verve to its red and black fruit flavors. Finishes with substantial but noble tannins and very good length, with a persistent minerality.