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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru does not quite convey the same degree of energy as its peers. Flint and green apple notes gradually unfurl; maybe this is just more backward? The palate is definitely backward and yet there is a lot of weight in the mouth. It initially feels a little clammed shut…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(this wine was aging in the grand cru room of the cellar): Aromas of nectarine and minerals convey an almost oily impression as well as a note of reduction. Then almost shockingly penetrating in the mouth for such a dense wine, with its nectarine, yellow plum and anise flavors enlivened by scintillating lemony acidity. Finishes…

The 2009 Napa Valley Cabernets at Age 10 (Jul 2019)

Bright, full ruby-red. Highly complex, thoroughly ripe scents of black raspberry, cassis, dark plum, tar, tobacco, mocha and minerals, lifted by a violet topnote. Wonderfully suave and fine-grained but still quite youthful, spreading out to coat the palate without leaving any undue impression of weight. Shows a distinct black cherry medicinal reserve. This very smooth…

2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: An Epic Vintage (Dec 2012)

The 2009 Dominus has closed down quite a bit since I last tasted it. Today, all of the glorious fruit of the vintage is hiding behind a serious wall of tannin. The 2009 still possesses gorgeous inner perfume and plenty of sweetness, but little of the sexiness that will emerge over time. From time to…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Vivid ruby. Very ripe scents of dark plum, graphite and leather and a strong note of underbrush on the initially reduced nose. Fleshy and smooth on entry, showing hefty, slightly warm, ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors, but turns austere on the long back end, finishing with tight tannins and a metallic edge. Really not…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pontet Canet has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, tar and tobacco, classic in style, maybe just missing a little flair? The palate is sweet and rounded in texture, quite extractive with mulberry and gamey notes, fairly bretty towards the almost Rhône-like finish. This is difficult to fathom out, not an unenjoyable…