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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 60/40 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; pH 3.82; 13.7% alcohol; a 65% selection) Ruby-purple. Knockout nose offers deep aromas of cassis, minerals, cedar, cocoa and coffee. Then very rich and creamy in the mouth, with luscious, extremely concentrated flavors of blackcurrant, blueberry, raspberry liqueur and cedar. Finishes pure and extremely long, with velvety…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a surprisingly understated bouquet that unfurls in the glass with perfumed, quite floral aromas of rose petal and violet that complement the red cherries, cranberry and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, the Cabernet Franc component expressive with brown spice and ferrous notes infusing the fruit….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a rambunctious nose with copious red fruit, meat juices, sage and crushed stone aromas, ineffably complex. This is so refined, constantly mutating in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannin. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of cassis, cardamom and allspice. Immense depth…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Flamboyant yet classy aromas and flavors of raspberry, mocha, coffee and herbs. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, but with great lift and perfume giving the wine outstanding inner-palate verve. Wonderfully rich and classically dry Cheval with noble tannins, strong mineral energy and great lingering aromatic character. Atypically full and approachable for young…

Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

Hints of caramel, orange peel, apricot jam and spice run through the 1989 Cristal. Ample, creamy and generous, the 1989 is in great shape today. The slightly forward aromas and flavors suggest the 1989 has arrived at a plateau of maturity. I would prefer to drink it over the next decade or so, although the…

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

The 1976 Dom Pérignon (Original Release) possesses a very distinctive set of baritone inflections that give the wine its powerful, deep personality. Ripe and full-bodied on the palate, yet very much in the Dom Pérignon style, the 1976 is a wine of textural intensity and raciness. On this night, it is superb.