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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aristocratic, highly complex nose hints at plum, roast coffee, leather, grilled nuts, tobacco and earth. A bit reticent today but already offers an uncanny amalgamation of density and vinosity. A very suave, subtle wine that finishes with creamy, sweet tannins and terrific grip and length. Was there a more consistently outstanding first…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2015 Opus One is rich, sensual and super-polished. That said, 2015 has really shut down since I tasted it last year, which is probably a very good sign for the future. All of the fruit intensity and ripeness of the vintage is evident, but the wine feels a bit more compact and less exuberant…

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1998 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is remarkably youthful in colour (I confess to guess it to be just 4 or 5 years old!) It has quite precocious blue and red fruit on the nose, again, quite unevolved, as if refusing to let go of its primary fruit. The palate is well structured…

Compare & Contrast – DRC & Leroy (Jun 2019)

The 2001 Richebourg Grand Cru from DRC is deeper in color than the Leroy. It is very expressive on its regal nose of black fruit rather than red, crushed stone and hints of juniper and sage, all exquisitely defined. The aromatics simply stop you in your tracks. The palate has enormous backbone and brings to…

Vinous Table: TORC, Napa, USA (Oct 2021)

In its youth, the 2001 was incredibly austere for years. Now, the fruit is starting to fade, while whole cluster inflections and potent tannins dominate. Maybe I have had bad luck. I will hold up hope of encountering a better example at some point in the future. This bottle is good, but it does not…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Deep red. Multifaceted, very pure, very ripe nose of cassis, licorice, minerals and smoked meat. Then vibrant but tight and closed, showing considerably less volume today than the Romanee Saint-Vivant. Tannins are fine but youthfully austere, as there’s less buffering mid-palate sweetness here. Inscrutable at present, but does not seem to be as exceptional in…