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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Red-ruby. Expressive, liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, spicy oak and fresh herbs. Supple, sweet and plump in the mouth; not especially dense but has a firm structural underpinning. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and subtle, lingering black raspberry flavor. This should be the best Conseillante since the ’95.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

A darker, more mineral-inflected side of Chambolle comes through in the 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras. Here the flavors are darker and more mineral-pitched. Cool, racy veins of minerality lend energy and vibrancy to dark cherry, plum, cloves and menthol. Today, the Cras is absolutely impeccable. The tannins are firm, though, and will require time to…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Dark, bright red. Raspberry, spices and crushed stone on the vibrant nose and palate. A distinctly rocky, precise style, offering terrific lift and verve and a steely spine of acidity. Spreads out to saturate the palate without leaving any impression of weight. Lovely lingering perfume. Lay this one down for a while.

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…