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Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Very sexy aromas of currant, blackberry and brown sugar, all lifted by an ineffable floral quality from the thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon that comprises three-quarters of the blend. Dense, fresh and thick with extract; a wonderful combination of texture and guts. Has a core of steel and a powerful structure I haven’t found…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Dullish ruby-red. Full-blown, exotic aromas of plum jam, roasted meat and leather, with a suggestion of tropical chocolate. Big, plush and full; a seamless wine that avoids coming off as flat. Finishes with ripe tannins and a lingering flavor of chocolate. I underrated this wine in barrel. Unusually fleshy for Beychevelle, which is not a…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

The 1981 Collection (Magnum) has begun to slowly enter a plateau of maturity marked by slightly oxidative, tertiary notes that give the wine its burnished, resonant personality. Open-knit and creamy on the palate, the 1981 is an ideal wine for current drinking, as it is not likely to improve much from here. Stone fruit, vanilla,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(a blend of 52% cabernet sauvignon, 42% merlot and 6% petit verdot) Ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, leather, game and dark chocolate. Pliant and smooth, with a rather fine-grained texture for a young wine from this chateau. Doesn’t possess the definition or lift of the best 2004 St. Juliens, but has a solid…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The 1999 La Grande Année a is refined, elegant wine with pretty, exotic notes of apricots, peaches, honey, flowers, smoke and toasted oak. There is notable clarity and precision here, in a style that is generous and approachable. The 1999 La Grande Année is 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay, of which 82% came from…