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Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

The 1990 Cristal is remarkable. Polished, nuanced and light on its feet, the 1990 is all class. Citrus, orchard fruit and floral notes are wonderfully lifted throughout. A slight reductive note adds character on the finely knit finish. I can’t think of a better way to start this tasting. Simply put, the 1990 is a…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2017 Bannockburn Pinot Noir has a lovely, understated bouquet with blackberry and briary aromas and a subtle earthy/forest floor note loitering in the wings. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin and gentle grip in the mouth, but nothing overly powerful. It is a natural Pinot Noir leaning towards a broodier style, yet…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is the usual combination of Petit Chapelle, Cherbaudes and Bel Air, matures in 60% new oak with 30-40% whole bunches. This is a big step up from the Village Cru: much more delineation and precision, pure blackberry and raspberry fruit, the whole bunch deftly used. The palate is very harmonious…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from parcels in the south of the appellation. It is 100% de-stemmed, as it is the maiden vintage Arnaud Mortet wanted to judge the vineyards performance, matures in 30% new oak. It has a brighter bouquet than the Mes Cinq Terroirs that comes from vineyards in the north of the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a beguiling bouquet of pure dark cherry and violet aromas, quite mineral-driven and wonderfully delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine grip, and touches of graphite and white pepper toward the sustained finish. This feels cohesive and long, and it should age with style …

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was a small yield this year, with just three barrels produced instead of the usual six. It has an understated bouquet of light dandelion and patisserie aromas. The well-balanced palate displays fine delineation and a tang of marmalade toward the finish. This is a nicely composed Corton-Charlemagne, though I wager…