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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good deep red. Deep, brooding aromas of plum, menthol, truffle, marzipan and chestnut; very Serralunga. Fat, sweet and full but youthfully inexpressive; impressively thick but monolithic at present. This expands dramatically toward the back, finishing with huge, broad tannins. A very tight wine in need of extended aging: I can see this being quite long-lived,…

2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)

The 2003 Sperss has aged a little better than the Conteisa, which is not surprising considering its Serralunga origins and the firmer tannins that have helped maintain a sense of freshness. Smoke, iron, graphite and spices add nuance in a dark, powerful wine with plenty of intensity. My preference would be to drink the 2003…

2010 Brunello di Montalcino: A Promise Fulfilled (Feb 2015)

Dark red cherry, smoke, plum, wild flowers and cedar are some of the notes that flesh out in the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino from Castelgiocondo. Ripe, soft and textured on the palate, the 2010 impresses for its silkiness and early approachability. Sweet floral and spiced notes reappear on the finish, adding considerable lift and perfume….

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Medium color shows some development. Expressive, complex aromas of redcurrant, plum, dried flowers, tobacco and smoke; rather Graves-like. Smooth, silky and consistent, with lovely sweetness and moderate flesh and weight. The very fine, tongue dusting tannins are slightly dry, but there also sneaky finishing fruit. Drink over the next five or six years.

Argentina Reaches New Heights (Sep 2019)

Bright, dark red-ruby. Wild, musky scents and flavors of black raspberry, black pepper, olive tapenade, licorice and rocky salinity. Plush, savory and seamless; a mouthcoating Malbec-based blend with superb depth and palate presence. As concentrated as this wine is, it’s medium-bodied in the style of this cooler year but also remarkably nuanced and harmonious from…

Champagne: The 2016 Summer Preview (Aug 2016)

Pol Roger’s 2008 Blanc de Blancs is a very pretty, expressive Champagne to drink now and over the next handful of years. White orchard fruit, sage, pastry and candied lemon peel open up nicely in the glass. This is an especially creamy, voluptuous 2008, although the acidity of the vintage comes through nicely on the…