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South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Palladius is matured in a mixture of concrete and clay. It gradually unfurls with brioche, praline and honeysuckle aromas, wonderfully focused and precise. The well-balanced palate delivers orange zest and tangerine on the entry. The acidity is very well judged and there is real brightness and tension toward the finish. Is it the…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2018 Palladius is a blend of 12 grape varieties, whole-cluster-pressed and matured in clay and concrete amphorae. Only Eben Sadie can take a gallimaufry of grape varieties and create a wine of this caliber. It has a clean, pure bouquet of wax resin, pine needles, greengage plum and light chamomile scents that gain intensity…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(Leroux owns this vineyard on the Chassagne side of the appellation; one of the three barrels was new): Deep, ripe aromas of fresh apricot and clove. Very rich, sappy and powerful but shy and quite backward today, conveying outstanding breadth and a strong impression of soil and solidity. The sweetest of these young ’17s in…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was picked on August 28, the first to be harvested this year. It tends to produce very small berries, according to Leroux, which is no doubt why the nose is very intense, with citrus fruit, lemon curd and light patisserie scents. The well-balanced palate is slightly viscous on the entry….

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet displaying impressive mineralité and tension. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Fine focus here, good energy and precision leading to spicy and persistent finish. Maybe not as classy as other Bâtard that I tasted, but let’s see how it will…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(following an early malolactic fermentation, Leroux is intentionally keeping this wine reductive, describing this as the Coche technique): Very reduced aromas of smoke, minerals and clove. Fat, smoky, salty wine with terrific pliancy and depth. A bit lower-toned than some of these 2016s but large-scaled, strong and in need of time in bottle. Musky, smoky…