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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 895) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Brooding, liqueur-like aromas of blackberry, cassis, smoked meat, licorice and menthol. Compellingly dense, sweet and concentrated, with silky fruit that saturates the entire palate without any excess weight. A very backward, firmly structured wine that offers an uncanny combination of early sweetness and firm but harmonious acidity. The wine’s dark…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Roasted berries, musky espresso, tobacco leaf and a whiff of prune on the nose. Lush and supple, with more obvious sweetness than the 2005 but less shape and thrust. In a chunky style. My suspicion is that the 2005 will ultimately turn out to be a more refined and satisfying wine.

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Vivid ruby. Intense red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by notes of anise, allspice and minerals. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic lavender pastille quality. Becomes livelier and spicier with air and finishes with supple tannins, outstanding clarity and noteworthy persistence.

2009 and 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape (Mar 2011)

Bright ruby. Lively, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, anise, earth and spices, augmented by hints of lavender and resin. Energetic, focused redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show good definition and pick up minerality with air. Taut on the back end, finishing with solid grip and very good, tangy persistence. I like this wine’s vivacity…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Saturated ruby-purple. Delicate aromas of blueberry and cedar are complicated by hints of graphite and tobacco. Delicate on the palate as well, with pretty black currant and cedar flavors. This wonderfully balanced midweight offers sneaky concentration and great precision to its classic, cabernet-dominated flavors, not to mention a long,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Duhart-Milon has always been an impressive wine. Here it has a very intense, backward, graphite and cedar-scented bouquet that just seems to grow in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, brisk blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco notes towards the austere finish. I keep…