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Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is the strongest wine from the First Growth in that decade. This bottle, served blind and ex-château in Bordeaux, is so precociously backward that I estimate it to be half its age. Blackberry, cedar and graphite are here as usual, though this bottle has even more intensity than the one served at…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1996 Léoville Poyferré is an inconsistent performer, and this ex-château magnum does nothing to allay my fears that it is a rare instance of now-retired proprietor Didier Cuvelier fumbling what on paper is a great Left Bank vintage. Given that the Cabernet Sauvignon had plenty of time to ripen after the September rains, it…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Expressive aromas of plum, currant, game, woodsmoke and tobacco. Denser and sweeter than the ’97 or ’98; structured but pliant. Finishes quite long, with dusty, very fine tannins nicely buffered by fruit.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is powerful, dense and explosive right out of the gate. I often find Romanée-Conti to be an elusive wine, a Burgundy that does not reveal everything right away. That may turn out to be the case here as well, but at the same time there is no denying the wine’s…