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In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2010 Guado al Tasso comes across as incredibly stern and tannic, with little of the aromatic expressiveness and sheer juiciness of the best years. The warm, resonant Cabernet Franc bouquet and dark fruit are less evident than they are normally. In 2010 the rains were particularly challenging, which means the percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2009 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso impresses for its richness and sheer power. Mocha, sweet spices, plums, blackberries and herbs wrap around the palate as this intense wine shows off its pedigree. Layers of flavor build to the deep, intensely satisfying finish. The 2009 is complete and harmonious from the very first taste. In…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

Bright medium ruby. Complex aromatic nose of blackberry, mocha, nutmeg, clove and tar lifted by a violet note. Lush, dense and seamless, with impressive volume nicely leavened by adequate acidity, which gives this big boy an element of finesse. Finishes powerful and very long, with a lingering chocolatey nuance and tannins that are quite suave…

2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2009)

Medium red. Riper aromas of redcurrant, plum and leather, complicated by a whiff of apricot. Ripe, sweet and broad, showing more weight and structure than the winery’s basic bottling, but also a strong impression of soil character. Finishes fleshier and longer, with sweet, building tannins that coat the front teeth.

2004 Brunello di Montalcino: A Vintage Full of Surprises (Jun 2009)

The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is a big, strapping wine loaded with dark fruit, smoke, new leather and minerals. The Montosoli, from one of Montalcino’s top sites, shows considerable density and richness. The tannins build on the finish, rounding out a gorgeous Brunello that achieves a brilliant combination of power and elegance.

Northern Italy: Alto Adige, Friuli, Veneto (Feb 2011)

The 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is all elegance and class. It possesses gorgeous depth and roundness in an accessible style best suited for near and mid-term drinking. I don’t quite find the structure of the 2006, instead the 2007 impresses for its silky tannins and overall sense of harmony. As always, Allegrini’s Amarone is…