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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…

Two Cape Crusaders: Alheit & Mullineux (Jun 2019)

The 2016 Cartology comprises some lots from Paardeberg that were picked early to maintain natural acidity. It perhaps does not quite deliver the same quality as the 2015. This bottle replicated the one I picked off the list at Hide restaurant a few weeks earlier. It has a more mineral-driven bouquet than the 2015: crushed…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chianti Classico Querciabella has that extra bit of depth, creaminess and mid-palate pliancy missing in the 2010, all while maintaining plenty of brightness, freshness and Sangiovese character. Freshly cut roses, sweet red berries and a hint of spices are woven into the exceptionally elegant, refined finish. Simply put, this is a striking wine…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – New Releases (Sep 2014)

The 2011 Camartina is rich, layered and exquisite in the glass. Fine, silky tannins provide the backdrop as this super-refined, polished Tuscan red shows off its personality. These hillside vineyards above Greve often yield wines of total finesse. That is certainly the case here. The 2011 Camartina isn’t a blockbuster, instead it is a wine…

Chianti Classico: The Stellar 2015s and Surprising 2014s (Jan 2018)

The 2013 Camartina is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, all from the Ruffoli sub-zone of Greve. It’s much less international in style than it used to be, or perhaps the Cabernet over the years has become domestic. Dense, creamy and beautifully textured in the glass, but in the restrained style that characterizes Querciabella’s…