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Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Las Piedras Vineyard is powerful, deep and explosive. Graphite, smoke, leather and tobacco open up, but only with reluctance. As always, the interplay of fruit richness and structured at Las Piedras can yield thrilling, powerful wine endowed with tons of personality. That is very much the case here.

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2017 Syrah continues to serve as one of the Cape’s finest expressions of the variety. Gorgeous scents of raspberry, strawberry, Earl Grey tea and pomegranate seeds feature on the detailed nose; then the palate is lithe and silky, with perhaps more _garrigue_ notes coming through with bottle age. Divine.

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Syrah comes from Elgin and Greyton and includes 40% whole-bunch fruit aged in 500- and 700-liter barrels (30% new). It has a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry, pomegranate, burning embers and crushed violet aromas that seem to give the olfactory senses a big hug. The palate is quite brilliantly balanced, the fine tannins framing…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru, which was bottled earlier than the Champans, has an intense nose of black cherries, blueberry, seaweed and iodine. The palate continues that theme: saline on the entry, dense and grippy, and very nicely focused with a lively, lightly spiced finish. Real succulence here, and very good persistence;…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru has an alluring bouquet of mulberry, hoisin, sage and crushed stone, a subtle meaty element becoming noticeable with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly creamy opening. There is more lushness here compared to the Village Cru, and damson and white pepper emerge toward the finish….

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1998 Ornellaia (magnum) is the least impressive vintage in this flight. Hints of oxidation come through in notes of beef bouillon and mushroom, suggesting that either the wine has not developed particularly well in bottle or this is not a perfect example. Ideally, the 1998 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In 1998…