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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru comes from 90-year-old vines, including 20% whole bunches and the same percentage of new oak. It is very expressive on the nose with brambly red berry fruit, briary, sous-bois and light rose petal scents. This is one of the prettiest Les Rugiens that I have tasted. The palate…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Similar deep red. Pungent, slightly sauvage, very ripe aromas of black raspberry, leather, smoke and minerals. Sweet entry, then strongly mineral and quite firm; comes across as stubbornly closed compared to the Pruliers. But this has good firm acids for the vintage. Finishes with a touch of austerity, and subtle persistence.

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(from high on the hillside): Medium red, a bit less bright than the Bressandes. Extremely minerally on the nose, with a hint of menthol and little in the way of fruit showing today. Then rich and saline in the mouth, showing more structure than perfume today. Youthfully imploded today and dominated by its serious tannic…

Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

The 2000 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is far better than the 1998, an ethereal wine that transcends the growing season. It has a stunning nose of mineral-saturated black fruit, evoking a sense of transparency that is absent on the 1998. It’s just pure unadulterated Pinoté. The palate has a slightly ferrous entry, a little…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

There are three barrels of the 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru this year, two of them new and the third four years old. This was displaying some reduction at the time of my visit, although underneath there is intense black and red fruit plus a subtle marine influence of oyster shell and seaweed. The palate is…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Deep red. Pungently perfumed, noble aromas of black raspberry, cocoa powder and graphite. Highly concentrated and chewy with extract; this wine penetrating minerality gives it terrific cut and clarity, even if it’s rather ungiving at this early stage. Finishes very long, subtle and backward.