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Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1994 Lafleur is a vintage that I drank regularly in the days when such off-vintages were cheap. However, it has long been a wine that seems permanently stuck in a root day: green and herbaceous on the nose, Loire meets Pomerol on the palate. Quite simply, I don’t think the Cabernet Franc achieved full…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 1999 Dom Pérignon P2 is one of the most intriguing Champagnes I have tasted from Dom Pérignon in recent years. In fact, it was not included in a small vertical I tasted at the estate in March, but rather this is a bottle I tasted with friends in London. According to Chef de Caves…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good ruby-red. Cool, medicinal aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice, graphite and herbs. Leanish and tight; primary but a bit youthfully hard despite possessing good intensity. Hints of spice, leather and fresh herbs. Finishes firmly tannic, fresh and dry.

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

(35% new oak; 100% vendange entier Medium red. Sexy aromas and flavors of redcurrant, smoke, chocolate and minerals. Suave and silky in texture, but with excellent energy and focus to the flavors. This has grand cru class and finishes with very fine tannins and terrific lingering perfume.