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2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

From Beaumes: Ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black cherry, gunflint and spices. Sweet and liqueur-like in the mouth, with an almost jammy ripeness. But this very powerful, lush sample saturates the palate and lingers impressively. From Peleat, with a bit of Rocoules due to the tiny volume in 2003: Saturated medium ruby. Currant, minerals, tar and…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Now we take the monster out of his cage, Jean-Louis warned me before pouring this. Inky, almost black in color. Elemental, hugely concentrated and powerful on the nose, which slowly unveils aromas of dark cherry liqueur, blackberry, cassis, espresso and a deep note of sweet tobacco. Impossibly rich and dense on the palate (the yields…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1970 La Mission Haut-Brion has been inconsistent from bottle to bottle. Evolved in colour, the nose is austere and lacks fruit intensity, rather charmless. The palate is marked by hard tannins and it feels a little hollow towards the finish. It is a mystery why the 1970 is not the calibre of the 1966…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot) Bright ruby-red. Pungent, musky aromas of black cherry, licorice and shoe polish lifted by a violet topnote. Juicy and sweet but also firmly built, with decent purity of fruit but only modest flavor intensity. Finishes with solid tannic spine for the year. Nicely…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Le Petit Cheval has quite a high-toned, iodine-tinged bouquet with more blue fruit than expected. The palate has a fine grip and good backbone, and features cedar- and graphite-infused black fruit. I admire the density here. Impressive for a 20-year-old second wine, with a touch of clove and allspice toward the finish. Perfect…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

Conterno’s 2015 Barolo Cerretta is sensual and inviting, until the firm Nebbiolo tannins kick in. Bright floral and orange zest notes perk up a core of sweet red cherry fruit. Medium in body and beautifully persistent, the Cerretta is positively stellar. Just as it was from barrel, the 2015 is so refined, so alluringly young,…