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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(54% merlot and 46% cabernet franc): Good full ruby-red. Expressive, nuanced nose offers red cherry, strawberry, minerals and a hint of violet. Sweet and round on entry, then increasingly austere toward the back, with peppery and minty elements lifting the dark cherry and cassis flavors. I noticed some bottle variation with my samples on the…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc boasts stunning power and a vertical, imposing sense of structure that is quite rare in this vintage. Dark and almost brooding in style, the Cheval is a rare 2012 that absolutely demands cellaring. Smoke, tobacco, incense and dark spices open up with time, but the 2012 is a reticent, tannic wine…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 de Lamarque has a cohesive, well-defined bouquet of vibrant blackberry and raspberry fruit, crushed rock and light sous-bois notes, sophisticated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a slightly chalky texture and a fresh, very sapid finish. Quintessentially Haut-Médoc. I can see this aging nicely over the next 15–20 years.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 De Lamarque is a total knockout. Inky, deep and wonderfully expressive, the 2018 hits all the right notes. Black cherry, plum, leather, scorched earth and leather imbue the 2018 with so much character. I especially like the way the 2018 grows in the glass as it builds to a huge crescendo. All the…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a harmonious, powerful bouquet of layers of red berry fruit laced with crushed stone and pressed rose petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Hints of wild mint and star anise infuse the finish, which fans out gloriously. This is a…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Enclos Tourmaline turned out beautiful. Expressive floral and spice accents give the 2018 striking aromatic presence to match its mid-weight feel. Sweet red cherry, cedar, tobacco, crushed flowers and mint all open over time. Opulent and silky, with terrific balance, Enclos Tourmaline is impeccably done. Drink it over the next decade or so.