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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Currant, shoe polish, currant leaf and nutty oak on the nose. Chunkier and fleshier than the Carruades de Lafite-in fact, almost rustic by comparison-but with firm supporting acidity. Rather backward wine that will need at least a few years of aging once it bottled.

Cellar Favorite: 1995 Haut-Brion (Nov 2021)

This 1995 Haut-Brion was served blind during the summer at a private dinner in Bordeaux, a bottle with perfect provenance. It is a vintage that I have drunk several times, but not since 2013. Deep in colour, the 1995 has plenty of black fruit on the nose, displaying a distinctive briny influence, classic in style…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red-ruby. Sweet, highly expressive aromas of redcurrant, hot stones, roasted plum, woodsmoke and tobacco. Fuller and more textured in the middle palate, with a chewy, tactile mouth feel that suggests strong extract and a wonderfully pliant texture. A firm mineral underpinning and sound acids frame the fruit. Expansive and seductively sweet in…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is tightly-wound on the nose with blackberry, raspberry, hints of singed leather and spice. I appreciate the delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, chalky in texture with a grip and certainly impressive focus on the finish. This is…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level here was off by one-third, as this vineyard is on the Chambolle side of Morey-Saint-Denis, where frost was a factor): Healthy deep red. Musky, ripe aromas of dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Supple and pliant on the palate, showing lovely texture and sweetness for this cuvée; more relaxed than the village…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright dark red. Open-knit aromas of raspberry, brown spices and chocolate. Densely packed and velvety for the vintage and for the cru, with red berry, brown spice and iron flavors complemented by a salty quality. This rich, rather pliant 2014 finishes with excellent length and smooth tannins. While it should offer considerable early appeal, it…