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2010 Brunello di Montalcino: A Promise Fulfilled (Feb 2015)

Dark red cherry, smoke, plum, wild flowers and cedar are some of the notes that flesh out in the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino from Castelgiocondo. Ripe, soft and textured on the palate, the 2010 impresses for its silkiness and early approachability. Sweet floral and spiced notes reappear on the finish, adding considerable lift and perfume….

Focus on South Africa (Mar 2011)

(from shriveled but not botrytized muscat de Frontignan grapes; 157 g/l r.s. with 7.5 acidity): Full deep gold. Lovely perfumed nose combines cherry, orange peel, apricot, honey, sexy spices and wild herbs. Very sweet and extremely concentrated wine, with intriguing floral and spice notes contributing a tangy quality to the intense apricot, honeysuckle and yellow…

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again, Part 2 (Sep 2014)

The 2010 Barolo Roggeri is the most powerful and tannic of these wines from Ciabot Berton. Red and black cherries, smoke, wild flowers, menthol and tobacco struggle to emerge from a wall of imposing, searing tannins that dominate the wine’s mid-weight frame.

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru has a pastille-like bouquet of pure red cherries, strawberry and orange blossom, a little simple compared to its peers. The palate is somewhat sweet-and-sour on the entry, showing quite a bit of extraction. Spicy but not quite as clean as I would like on the finish. Difficult to…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has quite an intense bouquet of mainly red but some black fruit, the oak neatly enmeshed and hints of black truffle and tobacco emerging with aeration. This feels very composed. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity and good structure. There is a firm…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium ruby-red. Roasted, liqueur-like aromas of black raspberry and chocolate. Very sweet, fat and rich for this wine, with a high-pH mouth feel and full-blown flavors of leather and game. Supple and layered for Armailhac. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins, but the IPT is actually higher in 2005. And the 2005 is more chiseled.