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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(85% cabernet sauvignon and 15% merlot; 3.64 pH; 60% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Dark ruby-red. Exotic aromas of red berries and Oriental spices complicated by cedar and black tea nuances. Then muscular and brawny on the palate, but with plenty of ripe red fruit flavor and smooth tannins. The persistent finish is clean and pure….

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Good full, bright yellow. Honey and marzipan on the rather stunted nose. Then supersweet, dense and tactile, but with the ripe pineapple and marzipan flavors currently muted by sulfur dioxide. Shows the power of the vintage but will need time to express itself.

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

Magnificent in its complexity and pure breeding, the 2002 Extra Brut Celebris has it all. The Extra Brut style confers the signature Gosset drive, while extended time on the lees has given the wine just enough texture and body to fill out nicely. In the meantime, the aromas and flavors have mellowed into those that…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part Two (Nov 2011)

Dark purple. Drop-dead gorgeous aromas of spicy dark berries complicated by vanilla, mocha, espresso, iron, licorice and sexy oak spices. Sweet and expansive, showing great depth to its ripe blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Notes of candied flowers, cola and mocha gain strength with air and carry through an extremely long, sweet finish. There’s plenty of…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good deep red. Musky, gamey aromas of plum, dark chocolate, cocoa powder and roasted oak. Fat, plummy and lush, but with decent spine to give the wine shape. Sweet but not overly so, offering more breadth than depth. Finishes with dusty, horizontal tannins.

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2006 Gruaud Larose has a very conservative nose with smoke, tobacco and light attic-like scents. It just needs more fruit and more presence. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, clove and sage infusing the black fruit. This is a bit rough around the edges, though I do not find the metallic tincture that…