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Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

Alluring forest floor, ripe strawberry, melted licorice and peppery elements unfurl as the classic 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape opens in the glass. Full-bodied and concentrated, this serious wine delivers on all fronts, precisely combining substance, freshness and sophistication. The balance here is so impressive. An energetic and persistent close wraps it all up.

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Opaque ruby. Potent, mineral-laced raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by suave floral and spice qualities, picking up white pepper and cola accents with air. Seamless, round and sweet on the palate, offering intense red berry preserve and floral pastille flavors with a touch of allspice. Finishes sappy and precise, with velvety tannins and a…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Yquem is a wine I’ve tasted several times in recent months since it is available by the glass in a local restaurant. It’s a middle-of-the-road Yquem, a fine Sauternes but nothing special. The aromatics always feel a little advanced for the wine’s age, offering tangerine, mandarin and light butterscotch scents but perhaps just…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Bright purple. Powerful, smoke-accented black and blue fruit, candied flowers, licorice, olive and Indian spices on the deeply perfumed nose. Sappy, concentrated and seamless on the palate, offering alluringly sweet blackberry, cherry compote, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that show excellent clarity and mineral lift. Expressive and surprisingly lithe given its depth, finishing with building…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Croix de Beaucaillou has fragrant brambly red berry fruit on the nose, plenty of undergrowth/woodland scents coming through, although it does not quite clock into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. Certainly one of the more approachable 2010 Médoc crus, this has a satisfying harmonious, lightly spiced finish. I observed…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Aromas of cassis, menthol, spices, herbs and mocha went into a shell in the glass. Sweet raspberry, currant, tobacco and spice flavors are supple and pliant in spite of the wine’s firm acidity and high percentage of cabernet sauvignon. This juicy, approachable wine offers nicely ripe tannins and excellent length.