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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky ruby. Red fruits, licorice, dried herbs and cedary oak on the nose. Then dense and fine-grained in the mouth, with a distinctly cool quality to the blackcurrant jelly, red cherry and candied violet flavors. This rich, smooth wine boasts lovely depth of flavor and finishes with a strong herbal aftertaste and mounting, mouthcoating tannins….

2019 Burgundy – Further Additions (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Meursault Les Porusot 1er Cru has a very intense nose. Crushed rock and almost flinty aromas, with light pressed flower and orchard fruit develop with time in a tensile style. The palate is vibrant, poised and focused, taut and fresh with an arresting saline finish that lingers in the mouth. Superb.

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is sensual and inviting, with tons of the textural dimension that is such a signature of this Grand Cru. Dried pear, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, spice and ginger come together in a creamy, open-knit wine with remarkable intensity. The Valmur finishes with tremendous density and power. I wouldn't dream…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru has a more extrovert bouquet with yellow fruit, grilled walnuts, a touch of oak that will need a couple of years to be subsumed. The palate is well balanced and focused with fine salinity, orange rind and tangerine on the entry, and a tensile and intense finish. Excellent. Tasted…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru conveys strictness and correctness on the nose compared to the more expressive and perhaps more aromatically elegant Blanchots. This is a little austere at first, but it warms up nicely and reveals subtle orange blossom and undergrowth scents. The harmonious palate is very well balanced, with hints of white…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more timid on the nose following on from the Les Combettes and this needed more encouragement from the glass. Cold stone, granite and flint aromas are the order of the day, very well defined and precise. The palate is very concentrated with a lot of grip, the…