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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru has a much subtler bouquet than the Les Caillerets, the grilled walnut, almond and light smoky aromas gently wafting from the glass. The palate is built around tension and nervosité, very classic in style. Walnut and hazelnut notes emerge toward the finish, which fans out with style. This…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

There are three barrels of the 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru this year, two of them new and the third four years old. This was displaying some reduction at the time of my visit, although underneath there is intense black and red fruit plus a subtle marine influence of oyster shell and seaweed. The palate is…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep ruby-red. Distinctive, oak-dominated aromas of crushed blackberry, cedar, tar and meat; distinctly Rioja-like. Then dry, penetrating and uncompromising, with strong berry flavor and somewhat tart-edged acidity. A rather skinny St. Julien that may put on weight in bottle. Finishes with dusty tannins and very good length. Seems far crisper than an early sample…

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

(from 50-year-old vines cropped at about 35 hectoliters per hectare, according to Girardin) Pure but reticent aromas of yellow fruits, nut oil and menthol. Dense, chewy and powerful, with superconcentrated flavors framed by firm acidity. A very solid grand cru with excellent spine for aging.

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2005 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is in a gorgeous spot right now. Medium in body and lithe, with striking radiance from the warm weather that year, the 2005 is classy, polished and exceptionally beautiful. A hint of reduction adds lovely complexity on the finish.

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

Served from magnum, the 2005 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a gorgeous freshly baked popcorn, almond and patisserie-scented bouquet that is damn irresistible, if maybe just lacking a bit of mineral drive. The palate is underpinned by a very fine bead of acidity, beautifully balanced and perhaps weightier than recent vintages. There is a lick of…