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In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red-ruby. Sweet, highly expressive aromas of redcurrant, hot stones, roasted plum, woodsmoke and tobacco. Fuller and more textured in the middle palate, with a chewy, tactile mouth feel that suggests strong extract and a wonderfully pliant texture. A firm mineral underpinning and sound acids frame the fruit. Expansive and seductively sweet in…

Cellar Favorite: 1995 Haut-Brion (Nov 2021)

This 1995 Haut-Brion was served blind during the summer at a private dinner in Bordeaux, a bottle with perfect provenance. It is a vintage that I have drunk several times, but not since 2013. Deep in colour, the 1995 has plenty of black fruit on the nose, displaying a distinctive briny influence, classic in style…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru is clearly a step up from the Charmes-Chambertin, offering deeper and more intense red fruit, rose petal and undergrowth aromas. There is also a more tangible marine influence at play here. The palate is medium-bodied with very good structure. Elegant and poised toward the finish, which leaves hints of tobacco…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru was a little reduced on the nose when I tasted it from barrel. The palate is quite dense with good grip and darker fruit than the Ruchottes, leading to a lightly peppered finish. I will reserve judgment for later.